The Body in Tailoring

The body is the beginning and the end of tailoring and creating suitable garments. It is natural in a way to assume three (or at least) three lines of circumference or girth and these are the chest line, the waist line and the hip line. These lines of girth refer to the man and when you think of these lines of girth, they can become very human lines or almost abstract lines. And these abstract lines are important in tailoring and pattern cutting but they can become very human lines. For example, one can ask oneself where exactly is the waist line. The waist line is important in pattern cutting because there is an assumption perhaps that the body is narrower at the waist than at the chest and thus there is a need to control the fabric and shape the garment to suit the body. This of course refers above all to women but it also refers to men and in tailoring and pattern cutting in past centuries and in this century, it is certainly important for a shaping to be done re: chest to waist ratio for men. This shaping is important and may be at the core of the difference between pattern cutting for coats and pattern cutting for jackets.

Look at the across back line in tailoring and maybe ask if this line of measurement really exists. It is an important line because it seems to be the main measurement for the back. The across back measurement in tailoring, one might say, is the main back measurement. And see where this back measurement is located. It is located, one might say, above the underarm point. This underarm point refers to a point on the torso, or at least an imaginary point. It refers one might say in some way to a back point in the armpit but it is on the torso and it is the top point for the side seam. Here one is mixing tailoring/clothing terms with points on the body. To be precise, one can ask what is the nature of the side seam but here we are just trying to measure the across back. Still the across back is an obvious measurement. One is aiming to measure the back before one measures lines below this such as the waist and hip and one is aiming to get a picture of the body form or the nature of control that is needed in creating the jacket.

See the arm in its pose as it turns back and then the person puts his hand on his hips in the usual half akimbo pose. See how the arm bends backwards and you ask if the word 'bend' is suitable here or it the word 'backward' is suitable since the arm isn't really going backward. You might say that the upper back area around the shoulder is adjusting to allow the arm to pose in such a way I.e. arm akimbo. Still what does this mean for tailoring or pattern cutting? When you are looking at the back of the body, it seems that a pose such as the akimbo pose is important. At least a pose where the figure puts his/her arm on his/her hips in a suitable way so that the arm is seen to be able to 'move' back or it seems that the arm can 'pose' itself or aim to get an element of direction, direction in the sense of being able to bend the elbow inwards to the hip while placing the arm itself I.e. the arm inserted into the armhole and the arm at least to the elbow outwards and then of course inwards. And of course the arm one might say rotates in some way to allow this specific akimbo pose or half akimbo.

The arm is so important to the body and at least to tailoring because, if one can say it, it allows the body to pose in new ways and the way the arm moves shows how the body itself can move and this ability to move and adjust and then for individual body parts to move or adjust is important for tailoring and other garment creation. It is perhaps most important re; stretch and the reason why stretch fabrics were introduced was to accommodate this kind of movement, not only this 'ordinary' movement but movement in sport and dance I.e. dancewear, sportswear etc.

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